Reflectivity at the Surface
How much of the pulse the surface throws back before it does any work. A bright polished precious metal returns more than a matte or oxidised one, so surface state and metal are always read together.
A pulse that seats a clean bead in platinum can sink into silver without fusing, or thin the edge of a light gold shank. The metal moves every setting you use.
Before any setting is chosen, three physical facts about the metal in your tweezers have already narrowed the useful range.
How much of the pulse the surface throws back before it does any work. A bright polished precious metal returns more than a matte or oxidised one, so surface state and metal are always read together.
How fast the metal carries heat away from the spot you are aiming at. The quicker it travels outward, the less time your pulse has to build a joint where you want one.
Alloys soften and melt across a range. Where that range sits, and how wide it is, decides your margin between a fused joint and an edge that quietly slumps.
The repair operations themselves — sizing, retipping, chain and clasp work — are covered on the jewelry repair applications page; this page is about what the metal underneath those operations does to your settings.
Tendencies, not settings. Your own alloys and thicknesses still decide the final numbers on the display — this table only tells you which direction to move first.
| Metal group | What tends to fight you | Which way that pushes the setting | Where it usually goes wrong |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gold alloys | Behaviour swings widely with karat and with the alloying elements behind the colour. | Treat each colour and karat as its own starting point rather than one shared gold setting. | A setting proven on one colour is carried over to another and burns through a thin section. |
| Sterling and fine silver | Highest heat escape of the three, on a bright surface that returns part of the pulse. | Concentrated and short before larger and slower; keep faces tight so metal takes the pulse. | A joint that looks welded, parts at the polishing wheel — or a rim that sinks once energy is raised. |
| Platinum group | Melts far higher than the others and holds heat locally instead of spreading it. | Aim placement matters more than volume; the pool stays where you put it, including your mistakes. | Operators carry over gold habits, over-travel the seam, and leave a heavy bead to file back. |
Every row above is a direction to test on scrap, never a parameter to copy onto a customer's piece.
Of the three metals on this page, silver is where a borrowed gold setting most often produces a joint that looks finished and is not. Here is the whole chain, including where it stops.
Silver carries heat out of the weld zone faster than gold or platinum, and its bright surface returns part of the pulse before that pulse does work. Both effects reduce what reaches the joint and shorten the window in which it can be used. Nothing about the joint looks unusual while this happens.
More energy is not the answer; less escape is. Keep the pulse concentrated and short rather than broad and slow. Hold the joint faces tight so metal takes the pulse instead of the gap. Aim under the binocular microscope so the spot lands on the seam, not beside it. Multiple power configurations exist for this reason — the machine is matched to the metals you actually run.
No figure we could print would settle this for your alloys. These checks are answerable on scrap at your own bench today, and they are the evidence that matters.
Some silver work is better refused than attempted, and we would rather say so before you quote it than after the piece is on your bench:
When a piece sits near one of those lines, do not settle it by argument — settle it on metal. Submit a Sample — Request an M3 Welding Test
We will not publish one setting that covers gold, silver and platinum, because it does not exist. What travels between metals is method: aim, hold, test on scrap, read the joint.
Nor do we claim that all gemstones and metals can be processed safely under the same conditions. That sentence is the one most likely to cost you a stone.
Talk to an M3 SpecialistTwo rings in the same alloy can need different settings. These are the five things that move the answer once the metal is known.
There is no yes-or-no answer to "can you laser weld stone-set jewelry". There is an assessment, and it has five parts. Skipping straight to a verdict is how stones get damaged.
If any one of the five is unknown, the answer is not yes — the answer is find out first. Where the assessment says unset the stone, unset the stone.
Photograph the setting, the seam and the stone before committing to a repair. A picture answers three of the five points in seconds.
Send Your Jewelry Photos — Get an Application ReviewThe alloy in your drawer settles this faster than any table can. Send the awkward one — the thin silver shank, the previously repaired casting, the set piece you keep declining.
Describe the alloys, thicknesses and settings you deal with. The more exactly you describe them, the more useful the answer that comes back.
Prefer email? Write to [email protected] with photographs of the piece and the seam.
Still working out the rest?
What the M3 is and what it does